Climbing sling vs runner weight reddit. You should clip your PAS to both bolts if possible.

Climbing sling vs runner weight reddit Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. It’s a reasonable solution, adds little weight, provides an imperfect but usable backup should he drop his Guide, and equips him for self-rescue (a Guide, two friction hitches, and a sling make for a rope ascending system in a pinch. The discussion over nylon vs. The metal s-biners are too heavy for what they do. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. 10, but the point is that you're simply completely wrong on this one. of static from REI for about $60. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Same as before More slings Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. This. Quickdraws have a fixed length sling, but most come in either 12cm or 18cm lengths, which you get to choose. 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. I'm on the hype train, and I'm excited to start using overcoming isometrics and left-side/right-side protocols for a lot more training. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. 5 cm (1 in) wide tubular webbing to build an anchor. ) Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). While the shorter length is perhaps more common, the longer length is certainly more versatile. Get the scoop on how it stands up to the competition in our review of climbing slings. Paired with a carabiner and a sling I can put it around my foot and pull upwards or hang from a tree and pull down on when outdoors to warm up. Climbers often clip in directly to bolted or gear anchors directly with slings, and climbing above them with no dynamic component is when things get dangerous. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. And yes we are scared of falling. For Multi-pitch. I tend to climb a lot of alpine and place a lot of passive pro so I like to runner things out. The attache seems to be comparable to the vapor lock in weight, but with a 2mm larger gate difference. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). The one HUGE exception to my gear sling hatred is for some squeezes and OWs, where it is advantages to have the gear on a sling on the outside-side of your body. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. I don't think it's a good idea - I imagine catching a lead fall could injure the belayer since the sling is really too thin to spread the load. The new generation of skinny slings (8-10mm) are very sleek and lightweight. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". A fall factor 1 fall on a dyneema sling can break things. You will typically use a 2. Shop for Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. 69 $ 11 . If you don't feel safe clipping in with one PAS, back it up with a sling girth hitched to your tie in point with a locker on the other end. 25 less, making the choice between the two simple. A full backpack provides more of a balance weight distribution. 4 to #4. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. There are so many more factors than just your weight which impact the amount of force you put on that sling. My partners has the same and they were equally as Apr 11, 2019 · The Camp USA 11m Express Dyneema Runner is remarkable in the fact that it performed the absolute best in our knot test. I switch between tying in with the rope, using slings/ draws, or using the petzl connect adjust. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. The 16 mm nylon sling will work as a friction hitch, but has a higher risk of being damaged and therefore losing function as a sling. Probably only works for them because they don't climb anything under 5. Follower has a nut tool, maybe a water bottle. Jan 6, 2019 · GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner Specification Length: available in 30cm / 12inch, 60cm / 24inch and 120cm / 48inch (flat pull) Width: 16mm / 5/8inch Material: Tube Nylon Webbing Breaking Strength: 22kN / 4950lbf Weight: 30cm-24g / 0. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. Above #3 I just go for whichever cam is cheapest (they're pricey as frick at that range, and IMHO the weight savings from newer stuff doesn't matter as much) I tend to go 10-12 alpine draws with 2-4 quicks depending on where I am and the climb. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. It can be racked in just the same way. The minis are too small for anything, other than zipper locksbut as zipper locks, the minis/lockable minis are great. They are also light for alpine stuff. the knot might snag. If you can find second hand I highly recommend. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. The fact is that a heavy weight taking factor 2 fall directly onto a single dyneema sling may break the sling Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. Gloves only for aid or FA. The narrowest slings are about 8mm, while the widest are about 25mm. View all Black Diamond Slings. May 26, 2020 · Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. I have one already and it's the worst. Discover the fascinating world of slings and runners: From the many ways to use them down to how to choose the right one for your very own climbing adventure Nov 1, 2024 · Stiff gate action, skinny runner hard to grab when sport climbing: Narrow sling, exposed notch can snag on gear, wide profile: Small carabiners, smallest gate opening, easily twisted sling: Tiny biners are hard to clip, hard to grab onto, wiregate on top a challenge to clean: Bottom Line: The best overall draw for sport specific climbers Jul 5, 2020 · 2 light weight quick draws (wire gates, skinny dog bones) 8mm slings with one biner each (I don’t do trad draws because my cams all have racking biners) I twist rack most of them. I still use them, but I'd never put a knot in one. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. Yea seems like they aren’t making them anymore. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link Jun 15, 2020 · Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyneema slings in size/weight. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. Yes, you could achieve the same with weights, but I find that say for weight x, up to that weight, it feels like it won't move off the ground, and so it is far harder to determine when you're ready. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Apr 11, 2019 · Other slings in this review, in particular the Petzl Pur-Anneau Sling and the Black Diamond Dynex Runner, also use a high-molecular weight polyethalene similar to Dyneema to lower weight and size, but these slings are sewn flat, and so need to be a bit wider to ensure the same strength. I'm a beginner sport climber though, so weight is not really an issue for me at this stage. I augment my kit with Nitize plastic s-biner #4 (25lbs) and #2. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. 5mm Treatment: Dry Static Elongation %: 8 Dynamic Elongation %: 32 UIAA Falls: 8-9 UIAA dry test: 1. Climbing slings and carabiners rated for 15-20kN. 22 kilonewtons. Runner/ Sling. 69 And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. It has a recognizable aesthetic and is available in two different colors: a bright orange color that makes it easy to spot and distinguish, and a grey-rock colored version that blends more into the rock climbing wall environment. Chances are you'll never take a 10kn whipper, but just look at how much weaker the Dyneema sling is with a knot vs without. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. You should clip your PAS to both bolts if possible. This is good for maybe 70% of climbs I do on granite. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. The second bolt is your backup if the first fails. On here sits all the extra stuff. I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). Can't remember off the top of my head if it's 7mm or 8mm. Nov 9, 2021 · For most slings thats taking something from ~5,000 lbs to ~2,500 lbs, which is still more than enough for a personal tether that should only see body weight. If that's your SWL, using the 5:1 ratio, you'd want 2000lb (~10kN) rated gear. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. They are better for alpine draws because of their reduced bulk and flexibility. Additional knots do not continue to halve the strength. Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 11mm wide, 120cm long version, which allowed us to easily equalize two anchor pieces with a figure-eight knot. cav hxvt kusjnt eaq qga waj xgbhq uptbx wtatx gklu fomvno polswi hib wzz rvvke